There is a popular notion among non-Berliners that born-and-bred residents can be a little too direct and straightforward. This perceived phenomena is widely known as Berliner Schnauze (Berlin snout).

The flip side of this characteristic is that you always know where you are with a true Berliner. Having lived here for the better part of my life, it would be untrue to say I have not been in situations that left me baffled. However, I have also learned to value the truth shining through the occasional gruffness and that, once you have made it through the hard shell, Berliners can be the most helpful and kind people – in just the same, straightforward way.

The overall tone in town these days, meanwhile, is softening, which may also be due to the increasing number of young families who decide to raise their kids here, despite all the urban grime. For example, there is a small, unassuming foot bridge crossing the train tracks between Prenzlauer Berg and Pankow, which daily serves a lot of (half-legal) cyclists as well as numerous pedestrians. Both cross-regional and city trains can be spotted from here, and while the former simply swoosh by, it is the S-Bahn (Overground) which proves most fascinating for the kids. This has a specific reason: for the little ones who stop and peer down mesmerised at the yellow-red approaching wagons, some of the train drivers actually honk. They only do it for the kids though – and only if they drum up the courage to give a little wave first.

A different kind of Berlin snout, who chooses to reproduce here. Photo: Chris Curry on Unsplash

A different kind of Berlin snout, who chooses to reproduce here. Photo: Chris Curry on Unsplash

Apropos courage: you have to understand that a city which has dealt with not only one but two oppressive regimes necessarily breeds people who speak up against intolerance. And with this trait might come a certain gruffness as well as an urge to point out the truth. This resilience is, after all, how the city became known as a hub for tolerance, drawing multiple people with its free spirit. Recently, a Berlin think tank invited a certain Washington bishop, who stood her ground publicly in the face of intolerance, not once but twice. The softly spoken cleric was presenting her book on courage and, after an insightful discussion and Q&A, closed the evening with a simple appeal to stay both courageous and kind in times like these.

With the Berliners, she of course found an open ear, and the standing ovations spoke for themselves. All she has done is to tell the truth and ask for mercy, insight and kindness of those in power. That combination (truth, courage and kindness) goes down well in this city, and the next time you meet a Berliner who is a little too forthright for your taste, simply keep in mind that the gruff attitude may actually contain a glimpse of truth. And if you are willing to take the conversation from there, who knows, maybe you will make a new friend in no time.

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Berlin Notes: Town of coffee

Photo: Coline Mattée

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