Barbara Geier: The German joy of wandering

TEXT & PHOTO: BARBARA GEIER

And just like that, it’s autumn. Who would have thought, after this long and very hot summer. I like autumn, the changing colours, the way the sky looks at sunset. There’s still a certain glow to it. Just without the heat.

It’s the perfect season to go for a walk. Or Spaziergang, as we call it in German. That’s not a hike, or a run, or necessarily a walk to get somewhere. Spaziergang carries a particular German sentiment of going for a walk as an activity in itself. The German Spaziergang is less about getting from A to B and more about simply being out and about. You might walk through a park, around the neighbourhood or along a forest path. There doesn’t have to be a particular destination and there’s no need to cover a certain number of miles. You are just…walking. It’s a perfectly sensible use of an afternoon: “Ich gehe spazieren” – “I’m going for a walk” is a complete plan. No further explanation required.

As an in-between season, autumn is particularly well suited. Not too hot, not too cold, and a little rain is not an issue. When Germans go for a Spaziergang in autumn, you can trust them to be well suited and booted. Out comes the beloved Allwetterjacke, the all-weather jacket, to withstand wind, rain or cooler temperatures, and a good pair of shoes. Off they go.

A German Spaziergang can also be very sociable. Families go for walks after Sunday lunch. Couples walk and talk. Friends meet for a stroll. And if it ends in a nice café for a Kaffee und Kuchen (coffee and cake) break, all the better. Apart from that no particular purpose or ambition needs to be involved. No step count to conquer, no destination to reach. Just enjoy the walk and let the mind wander. Walking gives you time to chat, think and simply enjoy being outside, without having to achieve anything.

A walk that embodies this concept perfectly is the Philosophenweg, or Philosophers’ Way, a famous path above Heidelberg, which offers sweeping views of the old town and castle on the other side of the Neckar River. Its name goes back to the late Romantic period when Heidelberg’s university professors and philosophers liked to stroll along the hillside overlooking the Neckar, discussing ideas and contemplating life. The name nicely captures the Spaziergang spirit of just walking, talking, thinking and enjoying the views, without any further agenda. Should you make it to Heidelberg’s Philosophers’ Way this autumn, I can only recommend it – and, handily, there are also some nice cafés for coffee and cake nearby.

Barbara Geier is a London-based freelance writer, translator and communications consultant. She is also the face behind www.germanyiswunderbar.com, a German travel and tourism guide and blog that was set up together with UK travel writer Andrew Eames in 2010.

Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of Discover Germany, Switzerland & Austria.

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