The changing face of Rheinhessen wines

TEXT: KATE JONES, THE WINEBARN

The largest wine region in Germany, Rheinhessen was once known as the home of Liebfraumilch, which holds a reputation in the UK as a cheap, mass-produced, sweet white wine that came to dominate British supermarket shelves in the 1980s.

Liebfraumilch’s literal translation is ‘Our Lady’s milk’. The name comes from the Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) in the German city of Worms, where vineyards surrounding the church produced an early version of the wine.

These days however, Rheinhessen’s image has shifted dramatically, and the region is now home to leading boutique wine producers that focus on reduced yields, exceptional quality and refreshingly dry Rieslings.

The WineBarn – a multi-award winning, exclusively German wine merchant – includes two outstanding Rheinhessen Riesling producers within its portfolio: Bischel and K. F. Groebe. Both winemakers are a member of the VDP, Germany’s association of elite wine producers and a guarantee of quality.

Bischel Winery

Brothers Christian (left) and Mathias (right) – aka the Bischel Boys – have been running the Appenheim-based 25-hectare estate since 2006, having completed vineyard placements in South Africa and New Zealand. Both believe in the ancient art of making wine by hand. Rejecting modern oenological techniques, they focus on the origin of the grape over work in the cellar, which results in environmentally-friendly viticulture and select harvests. Despite their youth, the Bischel Boys have developed unquestionable production techniques, creating unique characterful wines of outstanding quality

The Bischel Boys.

The WineBarn recommends:

Bischel’s 2022 Appenheimer Hundertgulden Riesling Grand Cru dry

Tasting notes: Aromas of fresh peach and apricot, as well as hints of spice and tea – and after further aeration in the glass – this dry Riesling has a bouquet of sweet dense fruit. The cool, smoky minerality reflects the limestone and marl rich soil of the VDP. Grosse Lage (Grand Cru) Appenheimer Hundertgolden vineyard these Riesling grapes were grown in.

The changing face of Rheinhessen wines

F. Groebe Winery

Husband and wife team, Fritz (left) & Manuela (right), run the K. F. Groebe wine estate in Westhofen. Founded in 1763, the centuries-old vineyards have been lovingly tended to for generations through sustainable and are renowned for their exceptional Riesling.

F. Groebe, who describe their wines as “German wines with character,” take the upmost pride in their craft and use only sustainable viticulture and traditional production methods.

The WineBarn recommends:

K.F. Groebe’s 2022 Westhofener Riesling Premier Cru dry

Tasting notes: A distinguished, high-quality Riesling Premier Cru. Rich and elegant, this dry white wine has hints of exotic fruit. Its distinct minerality, reflects the loess loam and limestone rich soil of the Aulerde and Kirchspiel VDP. Erste Lage (Premier Cru) vineyards this wine derives from.

The changing face of Rheinhessen wines