Barbara Geier: Germany’s hidden gem for affordable feasts and rich heritage

TEXT & PHOTOS: BARBARA GEIER

So, where in Germany do you think dining out makes the smallest dent in your wallet? Apparently, it’s in Thuringia, a federal state that sits right in the country’s centre. According to data from Meoton, a Berlin-based start-up providing gastronomic data, the average price for a dish in the green heart of Germany, as Thuringia is also known, comes in at 10.91 euro.

For the analysis, Meoton reviewed menus from around 30,000 different types of food service establishments – from the typical German street-food venues called Imbiss to gourmet restaurants – to calculate average prices for 12 dishes and 14 drinks, including German classics such as schnitzel, tiramisu (yes, that’s a German classic by now) and beer. And I imagine in the case of Thuringia, the odd Thüringer – or, full name, Thüringer Rostbratwurst – the region’s famous grilled sausage, was part of the calculation as well.

But why am I telling you all this? Frankly, I was just looking for a hook to sing the praises of Thuringia, a somewhat undiscovered destination in Germany, and figured, affordable food might not be the worst draw. Admittedly, until one very hot summer more than ten years ago when I spent a few days in Thuringia, it wasn’t necessarily on my touristic map. But during those sweltering days – it was really hot, lots of ice-cream had to be consumed – there were enough “I had no idea this is so nice/interesting/worthwhile” moments for me to realise that I had seriously underestimated how much this region has to offer in terms of things to see and do.

What makes it particularly interesting is that, despite being one of the smaller German states by population, Thuringia has played a disproportionately important role in German history, culture, philosophy, and science. So, there’s lots to see and discover for curious minds. Take Weimar, a small town of around 65,000 people, which lent its name to the short-lived Weimar Republic (1918 to 1933) as its constituent assembly took place there. A somewhat unlikely birthplace for a revolutionary design school whose “form follows function” credo has become a core principle of some of the most successful brands of modern life. I’m looking at you, Apple. But that’s exactly what Weimar is as the Bauhaus was established there in 1919. Today, the legacy is kept alive with the Bauhaus University and Bauhaus Museum.

Not enough, as Weimar had become a centre of German culture and intellectual life in the late 18th, early 19th century – a period known as Weimar Classicism – it attracted big names and great minds such as Goethe and Schiller. I enjoyed touring the Goethe Museum, the writer’s former residence, much more than expected. Lingering trauma, I guess, as, like for many a German, Goethe’s name is for me one that takes me straight back to school where you are force fed his writing. But instead of feeling lectured, I emerged from this splendid house, which also hides a beautiful garden at its back in a thoroughly good mood. Goethe’s Garden House in the town’s Park an der Ilm was equally delightful as is the park itself – and I could go on.

About Belvedere Palace set on a hill overlooking Weimar where I found some much needed shade wandering yet another beautiful park, or about Erfurt, Thuringia’s capital a 15 minute train ride from Weimar, which is a well-preserved medieval city with full of nooks and crannies to explore and the ridiculously picturesque Merchants’ Bridge, a unique 14th century stone arch bridge, with the longest series of inhabited buildings on any bridge in Europe. And I haven’t even started on Wartburg Castle, the castle of all castles, towering above the Thuringian Forest and a central symbol of German history (or just come for the panoramic views). Or should I point out that, according to recent data, you can eat out in Thuringia cheaper than anywhere else in Germany? Whatever floats your boat, I just thought I’d give you some alternative ideas for a potential summer break to Germany. Done.

Barbara Geier is a London-based freelance writer, translator and communications consultant. She is also the face behind www.germanyiswunderbar.com, a German travel and tourism guide and blog that was set up together with UK travel writer Andrew Eames in 2010.

Disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the official policy or position of Discover Germany, Switzerland & Austria.

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