Green Berlin is not a slogan

TEXT: CORNELIA BRELOWSKI

We have long established that bicycles may be the best way to get around in the city, albeit equipped with a helmet and profound knowledge of the traffic rules, of course. In September, when not as sweltering any more, it is even more fun to explore the city and its surroundings on two wheels and with the wind in your hair.

And while some want the sights, others explore the green spaces, of which there are many. There are the parks and cemeteries of course, as well as numerous interesting inner-city projects which have literally grown and taken up speed ever since unification.

First of all, let me sing a hymn on the Berlin city trees. There are so many streets lined with them, that both residents and strangers are in awe each spring when they all start blossoming and leafing at the same time and the city is suddenly in full summer clad. Look up once in a while when roaming the streets, and you will see maple, chestnut, oak and sycamore competing with an overwhelming amount of the famous Berlin linden trees. The first, by the way, were planted in 1647 on the orders of the ‘Great Elector’ Friedrich Wilhelm. They lined the former riding path from the Berlin City Palace to the Tiergarten, which later developed into the famous grand boulevard Unter den Linden.

Berlin Tiergarten, areal view. Photo: Adam Vradenburg on Unsplash

For recreation, many Berliners take to obvious destinations such as the Grunewald forest or the Tiergarten park. The latter, though almost entirely destroyed during the war in want of firewood, is nowadays in amazing shape despite the five roads running through it. If you choose the Tiergarten, make sure to climb the Victory Column (Goldelse to the devoted Berliner), to have that magnificent view which the late Bruno Ganz enjoyed as a fallen angel in Wim Wender’s Wings of Desire.

There are also a lot of green projects underway which seek to make certain neighbourhood areas and pathways more appealing – the most renowned one of course being the Mauerweg (Wall Path); formally first explored by Tilda Swinton in 1988, when she cycled the 160 kilometre perimeter of the Wall’s Western radius for the Cycling the Frame documentary by Cynthia Beatt. The Wall Trail nowadays is also subject to the Mauerweglauf ultramarathon, taking place on two days mid-August.

There are surprisingly nice green stretches in the city centre as well, most of which are being conscientiously restored bit by bit. The Spreeuferweg (Spree River Path) for example, the first stretch of which has just opened from Märkisches Ufer to Paula-Tiede-Ufer, is part of the Nördliche Luisenstadt urban renewal area. This area is part of the historic Luisenstadt, formerly pushed to the inner-city periphery as a result of wartime destruction and the construction of the Berlin Wall. It also includes the Luisenstadt canals, where you will find the absolutely lovely sunken gardens around the Engelbecken (angels’ pool). Here, you can stop for a peaceful coffee with swans.