Hiking Bavaria – exploring Germany’s mountaineering villages

The term ‘mountaineering villages’ revitalises an idea conceived by the Alpine Convention in the 1950s. Schleching and Sachrang in the Chiemgau region of Upper Bavaria are considered two prime examples, as travel writer and photojournalist Norbert Eisele-Hein finds out on his latest travels.

Dewdrops glisten in the grass. Birdsong echoes from the towering firs. Fluffy clouds drift across the treetops. The hiking trail gently climbs from Schleching to Oberauerbrunst-Alm. After a good hour, we reach the tiny, picture-perfect hut, which is only open on weekends. We are the only guests. We enjoy the fresh butter, the mild alpine cheese, and the spicy venison salami made on the farm, which the dairymaid serves us like a still life on a wooden plate. We enjoy the panoramic view of the hills of the Chiemgau Alps and the view down to Schleching. The tinkling of the cowbells puts us into a kind of meditation.

A brief flashback: the Alpine Convention, a treaty between the eight Alpine states and the European Union, is based on ideas from the 1950s. A long time passed before it came into force in 1995 and the implementation of sustainable objectives in 2002. Since then, quite a few municipalities, or better yet, entire regions, have completely sacrificed the noble idea of gently developing the Alps and making them future-oriented for tourism to the economic dictates of winter sports. Forests have been cleared, reservoirs have been created in the landscape, hotel complexes have been built, and lift capacity has been increased annually. With the mountaineering villages, the Alpine clubs, together with the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development and the Bavarian State Ministries, are pursuing the idea of developing the Alpine region as far as possible without the use of technical aids. Not least so that guests can truly relax in a natural landscape.

We start our next hike at Streichen mountain inn, right on the Tyrolean border. Bright red geraniums luxuriantly waft over the balcony railing, and the Lüftl paintings of this picture-perfect farmhouse glow in the sunlight. Due to its easy accessibility by car, this day-trip inn is more frequented. St. Servatius Chapel, just 50 metres away, with its magnificent frescoes and opulent gold-leaf altar, is also a tourist magnet. We take more secluded paths up to the Chiemhauser Hut. The small alpine pasture is practically overflowing with alpine ornamentation: antlers, watering cans, porcelain cows, and, of course, a sea of flowers. This colourful jumble gives the hut an almost fairytale charm. Due to the lack of electricity for a modern coffee machine, the homemade Gugelhupf is accompanied by a cappuccino, not a traditional cup of freshly brewed filter coffee.

Back down at the Tiroler Ache river, we decide on an afternoon hike to the nearby Klobenstein. The descent from the bus stop leads directly past the Maria Klobenstein pilgrimage church. Immediately afterward, a bumpy path leads through a rock that appears to have been struck by lightning or split by the edge of God’s hand – the Klobenstein. According to legend, the rock split during a mudslide to save an old farmer’s wife from certain death. Whoever manages to pass through the rocky eye of a needle without touching the rock is granted one wish. Many newlyweds make the pilgrimage to this destination in the hope of a long and happy marriage.

Down by the Ache, the striking ‘Duck Hole’ immediately catches the eye. Here, Tiroler Ache, along with numerous kayakers and rafting boats, squeezes through monumental cliffs. It picks up speed again in a wild 90-degree bend. An adventurous hike first leads across a heart-pumping, wobbly suspension bridge to the opposite bank. Here, too, both riverbanks are flanked by massive rock pillars that immediately remind us of the blockbuster The Lord of the Rings. The tour continues to the 1,430-metre-high Rudersburg Castle.

Sachrang in the Prien Valley, located at 738 metres above sea level, has also been awarded the title ‘Mountaineering Village’. It lies to the east, directly on the other side of the 1,812-metre-high Geigelstein, which connects Sachrang to Schleching. Before we set off to climb the summit, we treat ourselves to a princely mountaineering breakfast in the Sachrang village shop. All the products, from the freshly baked pretzels and farmhouse bread to the honey, jam, fine ham and smoked sausages, as well as the exuberant selection of organic cheeses made from raw hay milk, come from the region. This, too, is an important factor in its certification as a mountaineering village. A turning circle on the edge of the village, where large discount stores are clustered, certainly does not contribute to a beautiful townscape. And according to the Alpine Convention, value creation should be kept in the region wherever possible.

South of Mühlhörndl, we hike along a generally easy, wide, and not-too-steep forest path to Schreckalm. Cilli and Ernst Stowasser spend half the summer there on the Alpine pasture, tending the cattle. “A simple life. We only have a small solar shower outside. But we love this break from our normal jobs in the valley,” the couple enthuses. “What do you think of the title mountaineering village?” we want to know. “Of course, we have always been mountaineering villages in the strict sense of the word,” Ernst replies. “But it’s incredibly important that, with this title, we have continued to choose the conscious and sustainable development of the community.” On a narrow and steep hiking trail, we traverse the slopes of the 1,685-metre-high Wandspitz. We wind our way up several switchbacks to the saddle. Through mountain pines and past small patches of old snow, we turn south onto the summit slope of the Geigelstein. The following climb climbs steeply, making your heart rate race again. It requires a certain amount of surefootedness, and occasionally you will need to rest your hands on the rock for support.

At the top, the imposing summit cross rises from the bare rock into the steel-blue sky. Bluebells are still blooming among the boulders, and the occasional blue, stemless gentian can still be seen on the steep slope. While enjoying a delicious snack of Kaminwurzen sausages, hay flower cheese, and the remaining pretzels from the mountaineering shop, we enjoy the 360-degree panorama, which stretches from the nearby Kampenwand in the north to Wilder Kaiser in the south, and of course, the surrounding peaks of the picturesque Chiemgau region.

Hard to believe: from the 1970s to the 1990s, there were plans to connect Schleching and Sachrang with a ski resort on Geigelstein. Of course, a cable car would have transported us to these magnificent peaks faster and without causing major sweat stains. But aside from the destruction of the landscape, the quality of the experience and the rush of endorphins would have been nowhere near as intense. One thing is certain: in this case, less is definitely more. And projects like the mountaineering villages help maintain a sense of proportion.

MORE INFORMATION

www.bergsteigerdoerfer.org
www.schleching.de
www.sachrang.de
www.chiemsee-chiemgau.info
www.chiemsee-alpenland.de

HIKING TOURS

Heimat-Entdecker-Touren withJosefine Lechner in Schleching and Sachrang:
www.heimat-entdecker-touren.de

EATING

Gasthof Zellerwand, www.gasthof-zellerwand.de
Pizzeria Raggio di Sole, Schleching

STAYING OVERNIGHT

www.oberauerhof.de/alm
www.hotelzurpost-sachrang.de
www.simmerlhof.de
www.prienerhuette.de

TIPS

On the drive from Aschau to Sachrang, the photogenic Schoßrinn waterfall is reachable via a short hike.

Just outside Sachrang, a visit to the Mount of Olives Chapel with its opulent liturgical imagery is rewarding.