Reit im Winkl – A winter wonderland for cross-country skiing

TEXT & PHOTOS: NORBERT EISELE-HEIN

With the Nordic Plus concept, Reit im Winkl in Upper Bavaria has created a versatile cross-country skiing circuit with rustic rest stops and magnificent views. Tobias Angerer, one of the most successful German cross-country skiers of the 21st century and former overall World Cup winner, has already tested the route. We explored the trail with the four-time Olympic medallist.

“Even back then, as an active competitor, I enjoyed training on the trails around Reit im Winkl,” says Tobias Angerer. “The magnificent landscape of the Chiemgau Alps always motivated me. And I was able to recharge my batteries in the many cosy mountain huts. But as a cross-country ski professional, I mostly had to focus on the trail, my heart rate monitor, and my lactate level.” The multiple overall World Cup winner and Olympic medallist adds almost lyrically: “Today, I can let my gaze wander over the landscape, the snow-covered Sonntagshorn mountain, the sparkle of the snow crystals in the backlight, the fir trees with their heavy snow loads – I can absorb all of this wonderful nature.”

The Wildalm, which can also be reached by a drag lift, is a wonderful place to relax.

“I’m also consciously perceiving this massive rock face here with its enormous icicles, right on the ascent from Seegatterl, for the first time today. Wow… I’m falling head over heels in love with my hometown again,” Tobias enthuses with a wink, and gives his wife Romy a big kiss on the cheek. Romy Angerer is also a top-class cross-country skier and equally enthusiastic about Reit im Winkl’s new Nordic Plus concept.

Reit im Winkl – A winter wonderland for cross-country skiing

The start and finish are in the Nordic Stadium in Reit im Winkl.

But first things first. Reit im Winkl enjoys three different altitudes where winters are usually longer and snowier. Additionally, the meteorological phenomenon of cold air lakes usually results in increased snowfall. And indeed, the Maserer Pass often forms the border in winter. While green still dominates the landscape on this side, a wintery atmosphere already prevails on the other side in the microclimate of Bavarian Siberia. Ever since Rosi Mittermaier won numerous medals at the 1976 Olympic Games in Innsbruck, Winklmoos Alm and Reit im Winkl have been household names in winter sports.

Musicians often play at the Hindenburghütte, and things quickly get lively.

The fun of skiing on two narrow skis also has a long tradition in the Chiemgau region. As early as 1964, Germany’s first cross-country ski trail was signposted in the neighbouring town of Ruhpolding. Just one year later, the first fun run took place. In 1969, the company Plenk founded Germany’s first cross-country ski school and was long considered one of the world’s best ski manufacturers.

Delicate snow crystals in the bitter cold of the early morning

The Chiemgau region has always provided exemplary support for Nordic sports enthusiasts. From novices to advanced skiers to professionals, everyone can enjoy a variety of around 500 kilometres of cross-country ski trails. The heart of the region is the Chiemgau Marathon Trail. It runs 35 kilometres from Reit im Winkl via Ruhpolding to Inzell. “Yes, the Chiemgau Marathon Trail is also a gem,” Tobias and Romy confirm. “We particularly like the section between the Lödensee, Mittersee, and Weitsee lakes, the so-called Three Lakes Region. Sometimes you really feel like you’re in Canada or Alaska,” Tobias enthuses. “My insider tip is the Hemmersuppenrunde above the Hindenburghütte – a magnificent loop with a panorama that will give you goosebumps.”

From Seegatterl, Nordic fans can take a shortcut up to the Winklmoosalm by gondola.

“And the hut’s owner, Günter Dirnhofer, has more than just a knack for the trail on the plateau. What he and his team conjure up from the wood-fired oven is truly magnificent: hearty roasts, delicious strudel… and when the multi-instrumentalist plays along with his fellow musicians, you have to be extremely careful that your training days don’t drag on unexpectedly,” he adds with a laugh.

Reit im Winkl has once again made a major effort for Nordic fans for the coming season. One example: in the Nordic and Biathlon Park, with its large cross-country stadium on the edge of town, what is believed to be the world’s first children’s cross-country ski trail will reopen at the start of the season. Standard cross-country ski trails force small children into an unnatural position due to the excessively wide stride width. However, to ensure that little ones have unadulterated fun with cross-country skiing right from the start, the Reit im Winkl cross-country ski trail managers have come up with an idea. In cooperation with Kässbohrer, the manufacturer of snow groomers, they have developed a special, narrower track plate for kids. In addition to the existing biathlon shooting range, the Nordic Park will be expanded to include kickers, bumps, and foam children’s figures. This way, cross-country skiing technique is learned in a playful way, and later, it will also work with fast downhill runs on the cross-country ski trail. Several times a week, the entire facility is floodlit to provide the best training opportunities for ambitious cross-country skiers, young and old alike. Here, playful fun blends with outstanding early childhood development. Perhaps we will soon see Olympians from the Chiemgau region again?

The Nordic Plus trails also lead past the picturesque St. Anna Chapel on the Hemmersuppenalm.

The Nordic Plus concept reveals yet another winter sports highlight; the already extensive cross-country skiing offering has been extended. Instead of completing multiple fixed circuits, the map has been meticulously studied, and the planners have even gone cross-border. Existing trails in the Chiemgau Alps have been ingeniously linked with the neighbouring Salzburg trails in the Heutal valley. With the optional assistance of shuttle buses, the Seegatterl gondola, and the drag lift up to Wildalm, a further network of options was created. The Sport Genuss circuit ends after 28 kilometres and 200 metres of ascent. Three further sporting variants for bronze, silver, or gold require stamina for 39 kilometres and 450 metres of elevation gain, and 45 kilometres and 890 metres of elevation gain. Those aiming for gold and completing the entire circuit using fair means, that is their own muscle power, will return to the stadium after a remarkable 50 kilometres and 1,250 metres of elevation gain, guaranteed to have a puffed-out chest and properly sore thighs.

Back on the trail, the Angerer couple takes it easy on their test tour and opts for the bronze option. After a warm-up phase from the stadium in Reit im Winkl, through the snow-covered enchanted forest to Seegatterl, they float comfortably up to the Winklmoosalm in the gondola. “Actually, we could stop at Almstüberl right now. The Kaiserschmarrn there is so fluffy, it melts in your mouth,” Tobias enthuses. “But first, let’s get a few kilometres under our belts,” he laughs, pushing hard with a double-pole push. The trail opens up to a true winter wonderland. The view stretches far over the white-clad hills back to Wilder Kaiser, which dominates the plain like a monolith, across to Loferer Steinberge and all the way to the striking cliffs of Watzmann and Hochkalter, the top dogs of the Berchtesgaden Alps. The perfectly groomed trail connects the Chiemgau region via the hamlet of Moarlack with the Heutal valley in Salzburg.

Those who tackle the long circuit can recharge their batteries at the Wildalm: with a delicious Millirahmstrudel (milk-cream strudel) and a non-alcoholic wheat beer.

The steep climb up to Wildalm can be made easier with the rustic drag lift. There, a magnificent panorama unfolds on the south-facing terrace while enjoying a non-alcoholic wheat beer and hearty bacon or cheese dumplings. Beware: the homemade apple strudel and steaming coffee might tempt you to slack off. At the foot of Dürrnbachhorn, a beautifully curved trail leads back to Winklmoosalm, where the downhill run to Seegatterl beckons. Gold hopefuls will have to muster up some calf power for the 8 kilometres back to the Reit im Winkls stadium, but a free shuttle bus is also available for the return trip.

Tobias and Romy are in the flow and quickly zip back to the Nordic Park. “Nordic Plus is phenomenally addictive. The constantly changing landscape provides a true Transalpine experience,” Tobias enthuses. “Not to mention the many variations for all fitness levels and all the rustic huts with delicious snacks,” adds Romy with a laugh and gives a big thumbs-up.

The cross-country ski trails and Nordic routes in the border triangle of Reit im Winkl offer ultimate enjoyment far away from any hustle and bustle.

More information:
www.reitimwinkl.de/nordic-plus
Where to eat:
www.hindenburghuette.de
www.sonnenalm.de
www.almstueberl.de
Do not miss:
From 24 January to 1 February 2026, Reit im Winkl's Rauszeit will take place at the cross-country ski stadium. The nine-day cross-country skiing event features a 24-hour race, team trophy, waxing class, fashion show, food trucks, and advice from Nordic pros.